The most jet-set island in the French West Indies is renowned for its beaches, its billionaires and its parties. But it also conceals culinary gems mixing Creole influences, French know-how and local specialties. Between addresses and recipes, here is our top 10!
Celebrate lobster
© Delphine Constantini
It is probably the best value for money on the island, an address that connoisseurs whisper about. On the Anse des Flamands, the discreet Baie des Anges hotel, with its feet in the sand, houses the restaurant The Lobster, a renowned restaurant run by chef Michel Lefèvre and his second of Haitian origin, Francis Elisme. On the menu, lobster of course, available in particular grilled or in divine pastas, but also chatrou stew (small edible octopus) in red wine, West Indian-style stuffed crabs, Creole blood sausage…
Baie des Flamands (+590 590 27 63 61).
https://www.flamandbeachhotel.com/fr/
Grilled lobster, linguine, garlic and chili
© Delphine Constantini
Discover the recipe for grilled lobster, linguine, garlic and chili
Island map
© Delphine Constantini
Admire fruits and vegetables
© Delphine Constantini
Although there is no actual farmers' market on the island, there are gems like this one. Ti Market where, on arrival days, we rush to stock up on fresh products from Guadeloupe. Here, the shelves are overflowing with bananas, okra, tomatoes, mangoes, sweet potatoes, spinach… As a bonus, a small section of specialties with honey, jams, sauces or arranged rums and, soon, a caterer right next door to take with you goat colombo, soups and bokit (fried bread garnished with raw vegetables, meat, sauce, etc.).
Opposite the Lorient cemetery (06 90 75 42 15)
Island specialties
© Delphine Constantini
Enjoy an ice cream
© Delphine Constantini
Institution of Gustavia, Le Petit Deauville, a long boutique, is the meeting place for lovers of artisanal sorbets and ice creams, made on site by Nathalie and Yan. If exotic fruits are obviously well represented (maracuja, mango, guava, soursop, pineapple, etc.), the coffee and vanilla versions are also worth the trip! As a bonus, quick smoothies.
123 rue August Nyman, Gustavia (+590 590 52 37 67)
tub of ice cream
© Delphine Constantini
Eat donkey stew
© Delphine Constantini
Near the Grande Saline in the south of the island, Grain of salt is a restaurant popular with locals. Originally from Marie-Galante, in the Saintes archipelago, its chef, Eddy Coquin, surrounded by a small friendly team, does not hesitate to put Creole specialties on the menu which may surprise you: Saint-Galante donkey stew Martin or kid, shark stew, piglet with Jack Daniel's sauce, conch fricassee (a kind of large shellfish), ouassous ravioli (large freshwater shrimp)… A little surprising perhaps, but delicious!
Route de Saline, Saline (+590 590 52 46 05)
Drink a beer
© Delphine Constantini
In Gustavia, two groups clash: that of the supporters of Oblivion Barpraising its atmosphere appreciated by tourists, and that of Select, at prices that are still affordable and where locals meet. In any case, you have to sit on the terrace of one of these two establishments, on this strategic crossroads, to admire the nightlife and sip an IPA beer brewed right here, on the island of Saint-Barth …
Bar de l’Oubli, 3 rue de la France (+590 590 27 70 06).
https://www.bardeloubli.com/
Select Bar, rue du Général de Gaulle, (+590 590 27 86 87)
Living in Creole
© Delphine Constantini
Many Saint-Barths (residents) say it, there are few places where you can still enjoy authentic Creole cuisine like in the past. And they are unanimous: we must go At Rolande's because it’s an experience! In her blue and yellow hut, just behind Flamands beach, this Guadeloupean cooks like at home, without fuss. Overall, spicy acras, a fragrant chicken colombo and a mango crumble to die for (we'll give you the recipe), to enjoy on the terrace where a curious hen is wandering around, or to take away.
D210, Flemish (+590 590 27 51 42)
Mango crumble
© Delphine Constantini
Discover the recipe for Mango Crumble
Bubble on the beach
© Delphine Constantini
St. Barths has changed enormously over the past ten years. Blame it on the jet set, luxury hotels and American billionaires… If you like cabins, calm, the sound of the wind in your palm fronds and good cuisine, go to Ti'Corail, wonderful beach bar run by Yann Vinsot. In this sort of food truck without wheels placed on the sand, we sip iced tea or planter before eating acras, avocado fierce (mixture of guacamole and cod), salads and the specialty: a lobster roll with lobster as sweet as a kiss! Booking is recommended.
Grand Cul-de-Sac Beach (+590 690 41 78 59)
Postcard decor
© Delphine Constantini
Lobster roll with lobster
© Delphine Constantini
Discover the recipe for lobster roll with lobster
Drowning in acras
© Delphine Constantini
What's more West Indian than acras? Not much as we see them everywhere on the menu… Still, they are more or less good. Among our favorites, two versions. The first, ultra-chic, are those offered by chef Jean Imbert in his beach restaurant, The shack, at the Cheval-Blanc hotel. Crunchy and soft, perfectly seasoned, to be enjoyed in a dream setting. The seconds are signed Eddy's Ghettoaddress in the center of Gustavia, where they are enjoyed in a lush tropical garden.
La Cabane, Cheval-Blanc St-Barth, Flamands Bay (+590 590 27 61 81).
https://www.chevalblanc.com/fr/maison/st-barth/
Eddy's Ghetto, 12 rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia (+590 590 27 54 17).
Acras
© Delphine Constantini
Go gourmet shopping
© Delphine Constantini
What to bring back from the pearl of the Caribbean? Gastronomic specialties obviously, from all over the region. The ideal way to do this is to go to the delicatessen La Case St-Barthin the heart of Gustavia, whose shelves are overflowing with spices, hundreds of agricultural rums, Caribbean chocolates and coffees, local jams, infusions, flavored salt, honey… People also come there for masterclasses and lively tastings around rum.
L’Aroma Building, 10 rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia (+590 590 52 01 41)
Celebrate baking
© Delphine Constantini
Be careful, marvel! Of course, we must find Chokola Vanya small artisan pastry shop set up on the ground floor of a villa in Petit Cul-de-Sac, at the north-eastern end of the island.
At the helm, the hilarious Malik (always in a good mood) and his partner Mathilde, a gifted pastry chef. Here, we come for the desserts, macaroons, pastries and flans which are delicious every day, as well as for some savory dishes. But the must are the homemade eskimos, not very sweet and ultra-gourmet: vanilla-milk chocolate-almond ice cream, coconut-dark chocolate sorbet, strawberry-Passion-dulcey chocolate sorbet. Addictive !
Locality Petit Cul-de-Sac, D209 (06 90 47 19 80)
Multicolored fish
© Delphine Constantini
Saint-Barth, the gastronomic island
© Delphine Constantini
To create this gourmet guide, we traveled more than 250 km on steep roads, ate 42 times in 4 days, spoke with lots of Saint-Barths including two fishermen from Corossol beach, and tried without success to find a “ blanched candy”, the legendary local cake! Because far from being just a jet-set landmark, this small, still wild island in the Antilles brings together numerous tables, both festive and gastronomic. Among the unmissable events, the St Barth Gourmet Festival sees local chefs welcoming renowned and starred cooks from mainland France every November. Emmanuel Renaut, Nicolas Sale, Christian Le Squer, Maxime Frédéric, Pierre Hermé… From breakfast to dinner, including tea time, a great opportunity to combine relaxation and flavors by discovering the most beautiful addresses on the island. See you in November 2024 for the 11th edition!
Programming
The island of Saint-Barth
© Delphine Constantini
In practice
When ? Saint-Barth can be visited all year round, except in September, hurricane season, when many establishments are closed.
How ? French confetti in the tropics, Saint-Barth is accessible via Saint-Martin, the neighboring Franco-Dutch island, by ferry or by small plane, after a flight from Paris (Air France, Air Caraibes, etc.).
How much ? Rooms in private homes, villas for rent, hotels or palaces… With 80% American clientele, fond of its French art of living, Saint-Barth is a
rather expensive destination.
Info on https://www.saintbarth-tourisme.com/