There are three complexities in coffee: production, to go from the cherry to the raw material; roasting which dictates the cooking of the grain; and the preparation right into the cup. Even if a coffee is processed in good conditions, it is enough for the preparation to be incorrect to affect its quality.
Criteria for coffee
One thing is certain: the basics of a “good” coffee are identified well before it goes on the shelves. “There is a fairly standardized version of what “good” coffee is. It was formed based on quality criteria, set by the “Speciality Coffee Association”. “. A non-profit association, which supervises coffee circuits and ensures their good quality before they are placed on the market. All according to three criteria: traceability, roasting and rating.
Traceability
The traceability of coffee concerns “its identity card”. This concerns the terroir of production, which farm the raw material comes from, how it is produced and which cherry it comes from. » Let us remember, “coffee is as complex as wine, since to get from the cherry to the coffee bean, there is a whole process. »
Initially, coffee is a fruit, and more precisely a cherry. The process consists of making it undergo a certain number of treatments, by “depulping” it and thus “extracting its seed, which we call the bean which then arrives at the roasters. This raw material, called “green coffee”, is accompanied by an identity card. For example, “in “Arabica”, there are 100 sub-varieties. “Typica”, “Mundo Nuovo”, “Bourbon”… More generally, we tend to describe two main varieties of coffee: “Arabica”, therefore, and “Robusta”. “.
Production in good conditions
For the seed to be aromatic, “it is imperative that the cherry ripens correctly. » Sylvain Chauvineau confides: “industrial harvests in Brazil do not have a great chance of making good coffee. There, all cherries are taken without selection. As a general rule, the coffee cherry, which appears after flowering, should only be picked ripe, preferably by hand. » These pickings can even last up to a month. The best producing countries? “Ethiopia. Where the history of coffee begins with “Arabica”, discovered in the 11th century by the Yemenis arriving in Ethiopia. They named it like this to market it in all Arab countries, passing through the port of Moka, which also gives its name to a second variety of coffee. “. Colonies grew, coffee appeared in Sri Lanka, then in South America. There, coffee has taken a predominant place, notably with the famous “Arabica Santos” coffee, produced in Brazil, today the world’s leading producer.
Roasting
Let’s come to the second essential criterion for a “good” coffee: roasting. “Beyond the “terroir” part, there is, in the country of consumption, roasting. At this point, we think about cooking. » What is a “good” roast? “A roasting that serves the variety of coffee. The raw material requires significant qualitative extractions. A good roast and a good roaster. Someone capable of adapting the cooking profiles according to the origins they are working with and according to the desired result. »
Each bean is roasted specifically. “At Anbassa, using computer roasters, we work simultaneously with 16 coffee origins and therefore 16 “temperature profiles”. That is to say what happens in the oven, from the inlet temperature of the coffee to the outlet temperature and the power of the burners to maintain the bean in a certain state. Note that during cooking, a key moment, called “the Maillard reaction”, is the moment when the amino acids caramelize and give all the flavor to the coffee. From there begins “the development time”, a time that we, roasters, must master. The longer the development time, the more we move towards a dense coffee. Conversely, when you choose a slow development time, you are working with an acidic coffee. »
In short, when it comes to coffee, “everything comes down to thoughtful work”. A reflection developed from tests, “cupping”, during which “we taste and see the result, even reworking the temperature profile if we are not satisfied. »
“A single philosophy: the roaster puts himself at the service of the seed and not the opposite. »
The notation
The last quality criterion concerns “a rating standard”, allowing the quality of the coffee to be judged. “Very formalized sessions are organized, during which the coffees are tasted using the “Brazilian method”, which consists of simply “brewing the coffee in bowls”. The following are noted on a sheet: aroma, acidity, body (measurement of the viscosity of the coffee in the mouth) and any other criteria necessary for the evaluation of the coffee. The objective? “Achieve a score above 80 out of 100. Any coffee rated below will be considered low quality. »
“A good coffee is a mastered product. All our work is to advise according to each person’s tastes. »
Prepare a “good” coffee
Among the complexities of coffee mentioned, we find that of preparation.
Coffee, bean, filter or capsule?
According to the marketing of the bean, “filter or capsule coffee, or even whole beans, the difference is in the freshness. As soon as you grind coffee, it loses up to 30% of its aroma. The ideal way to fully enjoy the aroma of a coffee is to grind it at the last moment, therefore buying it as a bean and having your own grinder. » Note that the grain is eaten fresh, since with oxidation, it quickly loses its aromas. You must therefore refer to the roasting date indicated on the package of beans.
Capsule coffee is certainly less fresh, but nevertheless has a great advantage: it is designed to require no effort.
As for the filter, it is a “gentle method”. “In terms of rendering, the extraction of a filter coffee is close to the infusion. It allows you to obtain a very mild coffee. » Ideal for people who don’t like coffee, since once this method is tested, most adopt it. For good reason, “In the gentle method, we will have more developed aromatic notes, with less power and body in the mouth”.
Which water to choose for a “good” coffee?
Once brewed, coffee contains up to 98% water. It is therefore essential to this drink and its choice will necessarily have an impact on the quality of the coffee. We instead turn to soft water, which will have less taste and will not alter that of the coffee. “As a “correct” water from mass distribution, coffee shops and roasters use “Volvic”, a fairly soft water with a mild taste. As a general rule, it is best to avoid tap water with lime deposits. Otherwise we choose filtered water. “.
Water temperature
Preparing your coffee is simple: hot water poured over coffee, whether in beans, powder or from a capsule. Be careful, however, not to ignore the infusion temperature. “Temperature is important because water that is too hot “burns” the coffee. The higher the water temperature, the bitterer the coffee. As a concrete example, Italian coffee makers raise the water temperature to 100°. This “cooks” the coffee. We are then on a machine suitable for people who like coffees that are just a little bitter, since this type of machine gives a certain tendency to the drink. » For a “gentle method”, the typical preparation of an espresso, we heat the water to around 90°.
Identifying a “good” coffee
Once the coffee has been poured into the cup, it’s time to observe.
Appearance
Visually, it is not possible to recognize good coffee, except on one condition: that it is whole grain. “Depending on the condition of the coffee bean, if it is very black for example, then we can say that it will not be good. » Since a coffee bean that is too dark is a sign that it has been overcooked, “you are going to eat carbon.” Also, “yellow beans are not a good sign. “. A good coffee bean can be identified by brown, light or dark colors. On the other hand, “ground and ready to drink, it is impossible to say if the coffee is of quality. »
The perfume
By smell, “the only thing that could indicate a “bad” coffee is if you smell an oxidized side. It will not be pleasant in the mouth and of poor quality.”
Taste
The aromatic palette of coffee is vast. A “good” coffee, whether floral, citrus or dried fruit, will not be identified by the taste. “A “good” coffee is a coffee that has a typicity, specific aromatic notes. “. With a length in the mouth, a texture and its own identity. A “good” coffee is everything. »
Do not confuse bitterness and acidity
Coffee is commonly associated with a bitter drink. This attribute is also the reason why many people don’t like him, especially young people. There are simple steps to make coffee tastier, including creating different coffee preparations. This bitterness pleases some as much as it displeases others and yet, “bitterness is always a fault, normally there is not supposed to be bitterness in coffee. If we add sugar today, it is because we have been inflicting overcooked and bitter coffee on ourselves for a very long time. “. On the other hand, it is none other than the acidity of the coffee, and not the bitterness, which indicates its quality, “if it is well controlled”. “Coffee is not bitter in itself. It’s overcooking and roasting that makes it bitter.” Please note, however, that certain varieties, such as Malabar coffee, are naturally bitter. No connection with overcooking. Conversely, for a non-bitter coffee, we tend to opt for 100% Arabica coffee.
A coffee without crema is also a “good” coffee
Crema is that little creamy foam that appears on top of the espresso. “The crema indicates whether the coffee was made in good conditions. Normally, any espresso, unless it is too old, will have crema. If there isn’t one, it’s not that the coffee isn’t good, it’s that it was made in bad conditions. Either the grind was not fine enough or there was not enough coffee for the amount of water prepared. » In short, “the crema in no way gives an idea of the quality of the Espresso. This is a received idea. »
