Still want somewhere else? Head for these Parisian addresses, which dust off the classics with good taste. Like so many invitations to travel.
Miglia
© Marine Brusson
What a pleasure to find a place that changes from traditional brasseries in this area, close to Place des Ternes. At Miglia, short for “famiglia” (family, in Italian), the atmosphere is warm, all in terracotta, pink, marble and wood colors, designed by the Spanish studio Hurlé & Martin. On the plate: comfort, comfort, and more comfort! The products are very fresh, the presentation careful. Sublime salad, fragrant as desired, of green beans with roasted pistachios and salted ricotta. The carbonara, lengthened with a little cream (those who cry sacrilege will not have tasted them) with grilled pancetta crunchy to the bite. The caccio and peppe were perfectly measured. We have tested these classics often enough to know how difficult it is to tell the difference: at Miglia, the test was passed with flying colors. The desserts are not to be outdone, and, cherry on top of the tiramisu, the service was particularly efficient and friendly. Run there.
Miglia, 233bis rue du faubourg saint-honoré, Paris 8e
https://www.miglia.paris/
The Casbah
© Marine Brusson
Behind these heavy doors, long known to night owls, there is now a new kind of “bistrosouk”, with a careful menu and subdued decor for slumming until the early hours. Orchestrated by Abdel Alaoui, the pop icon of Moroccan cuisine, the menu offers, far from oriental clichés, North African cuisine mixed with all Mediterranean influences. On the menu, irresistible kemias to share with a glass of natural Moroccan wine, but also a bell-smoked shakchouka, a couscous with squid ink, with gluten-free and vegetarian options. On the bar side, Tarek Nini shakes up the classics (fig, orange blossom, argan oil, etc.), while, in the basement, Mr Ron, kingpin of the night, sets the scene for this “joyful ramdam” to the rhythm of oriental sounds (Lebanese disco, rock’n’raï, Rachid Taha, etc.) behind his turntables. Touches of folkloric decor (Berber fabrics, brass pendants, mosaic moucharabiehs, etc.), furiously trendy, confirm that the assumed kitsch contributes to the spirit of the festival. Rock the kasbah! Yallah.
20, rue de la Forge-Royale, Paris-11th.
lacasbah.paris
Panda Panda
© Marine Brusson
With its neon dragon and bar decorated with mahjong pieces, this pop canteen with open kitchen excels in the art of ravioli and bao, which the two partners, André Tan and Lucas Sauquet, have made their specialty. But not only that. Here, we share a ballet of colorful Cantonese-inspired dishes, with some Hong Kong and Taiwanese notes and pimped with cocoricool sauce. All based on fresh, well-sourced products (braised eggplant, salt and pepper shrimp, fried beef noodles, etc.).
21, rue Juliette-Dodu, Paris-10th.
pandapandaparis.com
Mabrouk
© Marine Brusson
A blue Sidi Bou Saïd terrace facing south, a dazzling canteen with white walls covered in oriental rugs, with touches of decor found in Tunisia (earthenware tiles, brushed fabric benches, terracotta pots, etc.) and a chef who seduces taste buds with sun-drenched classics. Tuna and egg bricks, homemade harissa, mechouia couscous, etc. are perfectly balanced, with less oil and sugar. The equation is perfect to take us across the Mediterranean in the blink of an eye. The “pornfood” favorite of the moment? The diabolical bambalouni, to be enjoyed on the terrace with mint tea.
64, rue Réaumur, Paris-3e.
mabrouk-paris.com
Shouk
© Marine Brusson
Behind the counter, Pierre Bouko-Lévy (ex-chef of Miznon and Mulko) sends out small plates well put together around market products grilled without flame on the mangal (char-grilled octopus, plated kebab, shawar ma, halloumi…) and twisted with inspiration from the Mediterranean basin. Good pick with the homemade bottarga, and the sun-kissed vegetables which are not reduced to the role of extras (soft eggplant, crunchy zucchini, beetroot from the ashes…). A must? Pitas with crazy variations, which explode in the mouth. A nugget? The angel hair knafé, of the highest order!
59, rue de Lancry, Paris-10th.
shoukparis.fr
The Grand Café of Athens
© Marine Brusson
In the heart of the coolest street in the tenth arrondissement, far from the caricature, this Mediterranean tavern with its patinated and careful decor invites you on a beautiful journey. Inspired by their vacation memories and their love of Greece, the chef and her partner show off, between touches of almond green and olive green, the hits of Hellenic gastronomy around precise sourcing (Kalios, Kilikio, Profil Grec, etc.). From breakfast to dinner, without the clatter of plates, a harmonious meal (dakos salad, tzatziki, tender octopus, lamb kebab, gyros, etc.), presented in highly Instagrammable dishes. A shot of sunshine, to sip while taking your time.
74, rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, Paris-10th.
grandcafedathens.fr