For, Patrick Williams, journalist
“In itself, the anchovy is a good guy. In recent years – fashion effect? – we consumed an overabundance of Engraulis encrasicolus for its omega-3 contributions. Is this really wise? In reality, this hairy, briny little creature is not a dish in its own right. It has only one real function: to spice up slightly bland dishes (pizza, pan-bagnat, green bean salad). And this role is not subordinate, oh no. Because human beings, with age, feel the need to spice up their food, hence the sometimes compulsive recourse to harissa, Maggi Aroma or capers. Normal. The more we get used to life, to things, to foods, the more they can taste tasteless. This is why we’ve seen so many people disgustingly remove the anchovy from their pizza at 20 and put it back at 50. And that’s why we won’t let him go. »
Against, Nathalie Dupuis, head of the information department
“Since the start of the school year, a certain number of my friends, those who are always on top of everything, start their day with a can of anchovies. I haven’t had a relationship with them, but as far as I’m concerned, I much prefer the smells of toast and coffee to those funny little soft things, smoked and dried, bathing in oil. Because when it comes to the promise of dawn, we have seen more glam. Imposing a dead fish for breakfast on the man who shares my life, sight and smell included, would signify the end of my relationship. I digress. To return to the little beast that interests us, I recall that in “The Sense of the Party”, the geniuses Nakache and Toledano made Jean-Pierre Bacri, converted into a caterer for weddings, say that the best way to encourage the guests to drink more was to stuff them with anchovy puffs. Obviously, the stuff is super salty. Limit inedible. But it’s hype: all the trendy restaurants offer it on their menu. We tested. Four beige lizards arrive on a white plate. It’s ugly, it doesn’t whet the appetite. Certainly anchovy is an excellent source of noble proteins. I hope so… At 15 euros a box in all the delicatessens in the capital, it’s the minimum! »
