Is opening your own restaurant over? Meeting with 3 essential leaders of Food Nomadism

Open your own restaurant? It is no longer an end in itself. Often supported by an agent, the heads of generation Z prefer to multiply the residences and are ready to cross the planet for a job of barely a few days. “It is the logical continuation of the advent of an uninhibited gastronomy, open to the outside, which has developed in the past ten years,” analyzes Camille Barthomeuf, founder of the RP Bureau Classico agency. To satisfy these desires, moreover, dedicated places grow everywhere in France.

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Already, in 2012, the Fulgurance team in Paris impulsed this concept of restaurant without a regular chef. A way for beginners to get their hands and for the most installed to highlight their creativity, to discover new terroirs. Focus on three emblematic personalities of Food nomadism that you have not finished hearing about.

Sarah Chougnet: bourgeois and modern cuisine

Before her 30th anniversary, she has already joined the most beautiful brigades in Europe (L’Astrénce in Paris, Le Gabriel in Bordeaux, The Connaught in London) and gave cooking lessons in Singapore. Back in France in 2020, Sarah returned to the road, direction Marseille. She opens Recain there, a remarkable restaurant where the watchword is simple: market cuisine and proximity to producers. Immediate cardboard. But you have to believe that nomadism is missing. When she was offered in 2024 to take the place of chef at the Gascon hole, a Parisian institution dating from 1973, she accepts. “Our job can be very repetitive,” she explains. The residence system goes against that, it allows us to discover ways to cook, cook, season, make a card, set up … that come out of the routine. It is destabilizing at first, but it is a powerful engine of creativity. »»

His signature dish

The flight-auction in the cuttlefish. “A great classic in French cuisine. The idea, arriving at the Gascon hole, was to offer it of course but also to adapt it by lightening the cream and replacing the sweetbread with a mixture of cuttlefish and squash. The whole, while keeping the structure, that is to say the hyper gourmet round puff pastry. »»

His jiffy

Asian seasoning. In a small bowl, mix 1 tsp. teaspoon of dried powdered powder, 1 finely chopped garlic clove, 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger, 1 lemon zest. Use this mixture widely used in Southeast Asia instead of salt to season scrambled or flat eggs.

Zuri Camille de Souza: Invitation to travel

Born in Goa, the 33 -year -old chef spends the first part of her life traveling with her parents on the Indian continent, then with her boyfriend in refugee camps in Palestine, where she creates solidarity kitchens, before winning a Culinary creation residence at the Villa Medici, in Rome, for a year. Insatiable curious, Zuri spends his time cooking elsewhere than in the city where she lives, Marseille. In 2024, she worked all over the world: in a hotel in Indonesia, at Mona in Athens, at Parcel 22 in Arles, at the Singuliers Café in Paris. His mantra: the journey, the markets and the crossing of cultures. With a wonderful British accent, Zuri speaks of delicacy and specifies: “When I make a residence, I avoid cultural appropriation. I come with my inheritance which is already loaded, then I weave links with the local terroir. For her, each experience is a personal challenge, which she always takes up hands down.

His signature dish

The marinated Kale Kale, Kumquat, Pistachio and Treviso salad. “I ate kale kale for the first time in the United States, Treviso in Rome and Kumquats in Marseille. The Association of the Three gives a salad that is both tangy and bitter. The bitterness for me is like a gold jewelry, it can quickly be too much. But if this flavor is well used, it is sublime and subtle. Finally, I really like to eat colors, and in this dish are my favorite shades, which bring joy and sun in winter. »»

His jiffy

Tamarin chutney. Dilute 100 g of tamarin paste in hot water for 1 hour. Filter to remove the seeds and fibers. Mix with 3 tsp. coconut sugar or cane sugar. Next to it, roast a few seeds of fennel and coriander and chili flakes. In a small saucepan, pour the tamarind preparation, the roasted spices, add a few pinches of cumin powder, salt, pepper and 1 glass of water. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until you get a ketchup texture. To be enjoyed with vegetables or vegetable donuts.

Clotaire Poirier: pop-up star

Before returning to France to participate in “Top Chef” in 2024 and finishing semi-finalist, this native of the Loiret chained experiences around the world. First in Ireland then in Australia, Thailand, Argentina, before landing at Kadeau, author bistro in Denmark, where he discovers a kitchen without borders, focused on fermentation of all kinds, wild picking, seaweed and other unusual ingredients such as ants. At only 34, Clotaire enjoys solid culinary experience. In a documentary that will be released in the spring, the young chef reveals behind the scenes of his pop-up abroad and defends this mode of operation synonymous with multiculturalism and intellectual enrichment. “At Kadeau, the brigade came from China, Japan, from the United States. The staff meal was often fried chicken and everyone had their technique. To create my own recipe, I mixed everyone’s tips, ”says Clotaire, who will open, in the spring, an address dedicated to this dish in Paris.

His signature dish

The poached oyster, elderberry, dashi. “One day, I wanted to make people love friends. I told myself that poaching them would reduce their viscous texture. To soften the iodized side, I seasoned with an elderber’s oil and elderberry vinegar, because oysters and flowers go well. Finally, I added a little dashi broth to bring even more depth of taste. »»

His jiffy

Citrus syrup. Recover the skins of four clementines, small oranges or organic lemons. Clean them well and place them in an airtight jar. Pour red sugar until it covers all skins. Close the jar and keep it in a temperate place sheltered from light. The natural humidity of the citrus transforms the skins into syrup after ten to fifteen days. This citrus syrup is perfect in a cocktail or to enhance a white cheese.