Nicknamed “princess fruit”, the pineapple was one of the first to cross the Atlantic. Officially discovered by Christopher Columbus during a trip to Guadeloupe in 1493, the pineapple was introduced to the European market a few years later. The craze for the fruit was immediate. Its rarity, its exotic taste, its reputation, captivate and make it an object of desire. Among all exotic fruits, pineapple is the first to arouse real enthusiasm in Europe. It must be said that the explorers were full of praise, speaking of the fruit in very laudatory terms, praising its flavor and exoticism. George Washington himself was among the fruit’s admirers. “None pleases me as much as pineapple” – says pine in English – he wrote in his diary during a trip to Barbados in 1751.
The first documented reference to the pineapple in European writings comes from a letter written by the Italian traveler Michele da Cuneo. This letter, dated October 14, 1495, was addressed to Girolamo Aimari, a Genoese nobleman. In this correspondence, da Cuneo recounts his journey across the Atlantic and his visit to the islands of Central America, where he describes the fruits and plants he observed. Among them, he mentions the pineapple, describing it as resembling an artichoke. This letter thus constitutes one of the first European mentions of the pineapple, which would later become the pinnacle of luxury and wealth in Europe.
The “fruit of kings”
The embodiment of opulence and wealth, lucky, and above all fortunate, were those who managed to taste what was nicknamed “the fruit of kings”. Its fragility during long-distance transport from tropical regions where it grows naturally complicates its importation. So much so that the extravagant Louis XIV, also known as the Sun King, ordered the planting and cultivation of pineapples in greenhouses at the Château de Choisy-le-Roi for his mistress, Madame de Maintenon.
Despite multiple attempts, royal gardeners are struggling to grow pineapples in Europe. Growing pineapples in unsuitable regions like Europe is a big challenge. In France, it was not until the reign of Louis XV that Louis the Norman, royal gardener, finally succeeded in cultivating the very first “French” pineapple. The first certainly, but almost the only one, because the cost of producing a pineapple was ridiculously high. Growing pineapples in non-tropical regions required the construction of special greenhouses called “pineries”. These structures were designed to recreate the conditions necessary for pineapples to grow, including high temperatures and constant humidity. A colossal effort and investment that only the richest could afford. According to estimates by Francesca Beauman, author of the book “The Pineapple: King of Fruits”, the production of a single pineapple cost nearly 80 pounds at the time, or almost 14,000 euros today.
A surprising but coveted gift
A special status immortalized in a 1675 painting by the Dutch painter and engraver Henry Danckerts. King Charles II of England is depicted on a terrace, while the royal gardener, John Rose, kneels before him to present him with a pineapple. A somewhat special present, certainly, but extremely coveted because it is reserved for high-ranking people capable of affording it.
While one might think that tasting a pineapple was the most significant of social achievements, the fruit was in fact rarely eaten. Used as a luxury accessory to decorate the table or dining room, rather than as a real food, the pineapple was rented by nobles for social evenings. A surprising way to impress guests. “If you were very rich and you had an amazing gardener, the first thing you wanted to do was send a pineapple as a gift to a fancy friend,” said Francesca Beauman, in an interview with CNN, “It was then displayed on the dining room table as a status symbol and would usually sit there until it started to rot, because why the hell would anyone eat a pineapple? It would be like eating a Gucci handbag.” Traces of this bygone era still remain, particularly in London, where the pineapple, a symbol of hospitality and wealth, adorns gates, facades and even the men’s singles Wimbledon trophy.
Although today obviously no one offers it anymore, this delicious exotic fruit remains a very good choice to enjoy, from starter to dessert.
