Vienna: selection of gourmet addresses to discover in the Austrian capital

Because traditional Kaffeehäuser, like Café Central or Café Schwartzenberg, only welcome tourists, bet on new places, such as the astonishing concept store Calienna, which serves lattes in a green plant shop (calienna .com). Our favorite? The Adlerhof, a renovated former popular pub, which today combines Thonet bistro chairs, a 50’s counter and baroque lamps in a green decor. Perfect for sipping an Einspänner (long coffee topped with whipped cream) and gulping down a Schnittlauchbrot.

Burggasse 51, 1070 Vienna.

https://adlerhof.wien/

Our grandmothers’ cakes are always the best. Based on this observation, a tea room like no other opened in Vienna in 2012: Vollpension. The concept? Offer retirees to work there part-time – no more than five hours in a row – and serve their pastries there. The place thus brings together old and young generations and re-establishes dialogue while offering additional income to retirees, like Doris or Johannes (our photo), Sachertorte champion. A great initiative to enjoy in a setting that is as old-fashioned as it is comforting.

Schleifmühlgasse 16, 1040 Vienna.

Über uns

Discover the recipe for Schnittlauchbrot (chive toast)

It’s a homecoming for chef Lisa Machian, who grew up in a working-class district of Vienna before leaving to work in London. It was in Paris, where she followed her companion, Arnaud Champetier, that she began cooking. When the pandemic hits, the couple goes to try their luck in Vienna. He is taking over this old neighborhood bistro to make it this new place of life where you have lunch (very good) for €13.50 around gourmet and mostly plant-based cuisine, before having a good time in the evening savoring vintage wines. nature.

Meiselstrasse 2, 1150 Vienna.

Landing

We thought the Viennese were very meaty. However, when it comes to ice cream, vegans hold the upper hand!
The Veganista brand, based on plant-based milks, with its banana and chocolate, orange-olive oil or strawberrytella flavors and its chia seed toppings, is a hit in town. Fan of classic Italian ice cream? Instead, head to Gelato Carlo (Hamerlingplatz 2, 1080 Vienna, from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.), to melt in front of the White Night (espresso) or Cassata (ricotta with candied fruit) flavors imagined by Carlo Maghakian.

https://www.veganista.at/

Home

Holder of a master’s degree in vine and wine sciences, Claire Yuan discovered Vienna through a university exchange.
Coming for a tasting at Vinifero, a cellar-bistro in the Carmelite district, she delves into living wines, and ends up taking over the place when the owner decides to sell. She also co-founded the Female Wine Collective to support women in this very male-dominated world. Everyone remakes the world around, for example, a Burgenland vintage by Rennersistas.

Vinifero Weinbar, Karmeliterplatz 2, 1020 Vienna.

https://vinifero.at/

Discover the recipe for Wiener schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets)

The city’s former Jewish quarter has become particularly trendy. It’s there, in the second district, that we go out for a drink and show off on the terrace of the chic brasserie Skopik & Lohn (Leopoldsgasse 17, 1020 Vienna, skopikundlohn.at). This is also where we come to do its market – one of the oldest in the city –, among the stands of flowers, organic vegetables and kosher smoked fish, before having a coffee on the terrace at Erwin’s Corner (Karmeliterplatz 2, 1020 Vienna, erwinscorner.com), a delicious delicatessen-canteen, or enjoy a Levantine brunch at Schöne Perle (Grosse Pfarrgasse 2, 1020 Vienna, schoene-perle.at).

Passing in front of Sandra Haischberger’s superb boutique, in the heart of the art gallery district, we can guess the workshop where this former ceramist creates by hand and bakes on site
(at 1250°C!) its porcelain plates, bowls and cups, mixing matte and shiny colors. The brand, FeineDinge – which can be translated as “pretty things” – is aptly named because we would like to buy everything, starting with the cobalt blue plates from the “Midnight” service.

Margaretenstrasse 35, 1040 Vienna.

https://www.feinedinge.at/

In the land of schnitzels, you had to dare to open a 100% plant-based gourmet restaurant! This is the challenge that Paul Ivic took up, in 2011, with Tian* (Himmelpfortgasse 23, 1010 Vienna, tian-restaurant.com)!
A fierce defender of the environment and healthy eating, the chef plays with textures, temperatures, raw, cooked, candied and fermented products to surprise throughout a meal punctuated by the luminous accords of sommelier André Drechsel . Also try the Tian Bistro (tian-bistro. com), the address accessible to all that Paul Ivic opened in the lively Spittelberg district. We devour this famous beetroot tartare, the secret of which we can easily discover… “We have no secrets, only good products,” smiles Paul, keeping the secret of his recipe.

Symbol of the French breakfast, the croissant was first… Viennese. Legend has it that during the siege of the city by the Ottomans in 1683, the bakers, standing at dawn, raised the alarm, thus saving the city. To celebrate this victory, they imagined a crescent-shaped brioche, a Turkish emblem. This “viennoiserie” will arrive in France with Marie-Antoinette. It can still be found under the name Mürbes Wiener Kipferl, in the best organic bakeries in the city like Joseph Brot, which also serves an excellent brunch.

Landstraßer Hauptstraße 4, 1030 Vienna (7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays).

https://www.joseph.co.at/de/

Nice surprise near the baroque Karlskirche church: a new table of plural influences, led by the Chilean chef Diego Briones and his sommelier companion, the luminous Judith Lergetporer, originally from Tyrol.
Both have traveled extensively, officiating in Asia, South America and Paris. The name of the restaurant, Z’Som, which means “together” in the Tyrolean dialect, sums up the warm atmosphere of this address where Diego’s fusion cuisine (remarkable pigeon with chimichurri, juice with beer) and the food pairings Judith’s judicious wines soothe the heart.

Gußhausstraße 12, 1040 Vienna.

Home

Discover the Kaiserschmarren recipe

Surprising but true, the Austrian capital has almost 650 hectares of vines and some 170 winegrowers! Every year, on the 4th weekend of September, the “Wiener Weinwandertag” takes place, a long day of hiking in the vineyards. The Viennese then go to get some fresh air in the districts of Ottakring, Döbling or Floridsdorf and sit down in the best “Heuriger”, these wine taverns open within the estates. But nothing stops you from exploring another nearby wine region, Burgenland, starting with the Claus Preisinger estate, which produces delightful Pinot Noirs on the banks of Lake Neusiedl (clauspreisinger.at).
To taste, with other gems from the Austrian vineyard, on the menu of these very recommendable addresses: Tian and Tian Bistro (see previous page), Mast Weinbistro (Porzellangasse 53, 1090 Vienna, mast.wine), O boufés (Dominikanerbastei 17 , 1010 Vienna, konstantinfilippou.com/oboufes), Pramerl and the Wolf (Pramergasse 21, 1090 Vienna, pramerlandthewolf.com).

Accommodation. At theHotel Indigo Vienna – Naschmarktideally located at the foot of the metro and the Naschmarkt market. With its countless counters of world cuisine, this human-sized establishment is a perfect base for discovering the city. Count on €135 per night. Rechte Wienzeile 87, 1050 Vienna, ihg.com

Find out. Vienna Tourist Office: wien.info/fr

Move. Thanks to the Vienna City Card which allows, for 24, 48 or 72 hours, to take all transport (including the airport/city center transfer) for €39, €47 or €51 by downloading the application ivie Vienna.